Summit Nevado Pisco Oeste, 18,872 feet and Nevado Huascaran Sur, 22,205 feet
Contact us for pricing and set departure dates- 17 days - Maximum group of 8 climbers, with one guide to 4 climbers.

Successful experience at altitude above 20,000 feet, very solid snow and ice climbing skills, including ability to climb 45-degree ice with a full pack is a prerequisite. Beginners and intermediate climbers may wish to sign up for Toqllaraju - Chopikalki Expedition which includes a review of skills and mountaineering instruction as well as summit attempts.

Nevado Huascaran is the highest peak in Peru and one of the world's most imposing summits. It offers a challenging ascent requiring strong intermediate level alpine skills, and an unusual opportunity for climbers who want to make an ascent to very high altitude. For though it stands nearly two thousand feet higher than Mt. McKinley, Huascaran's position at about latitude 9 degrees south spares it from the extremely low temperatures and severe storms that are commonplace in the extreme latitudes.

It is recommended that you acclimatize for about four days in or above Cuzco (11,500' +) rather than in Huaras (9,500') below the Cordillera Blanca.

Base for the expedition is Huaras, at the very foot of the Cordillera Blanca. After spending a day there checking and repacking gear, we drive north to Nevado Pico Oeste. We set our first camp at 12,600 feet and with the help of animals, the next day move up to our second camp at 15,000 feet. The third day takes us to one of the most beautiful mountain camps in all the world, between Pisco Oesto and Nevado Huandoy. Our route to the summit takes us through interesting crevasse fields and up some 30-35 degree slopes and provides us with spectacular views the whole way. With our gradual ascent, expedition team members should feel good on this climb and upon its completion be well prepared for an attempt on Huascaran.

After resupplying in the valley, the group drives to the town of Musho right below Huascaran and then, with our gear again on animals, we set out for base camp at 14,400 feet. Acclimatization is completed with an easy ascent to Camp I at 15,600' and then continue up over easy ice slopes and crevasse fields towards the peak's west face and establish Camp II at 18,000 feet. Glaciers flow down from Huascaran Norte and Sur to a saddle between the two massive peaks, and then off the saddle to the west, first gently and then in a steepening icefall. Unstable areas of the icefall are avoided by traversing under the south summit's western face, climbing moderate ice slopes and short steep sections to reach the shelter of a bergschrund above the icefall at Camp III, 19,600 feet.

From this camp attempts are made on both peaks of Huascaran. The seldom climbed north peak is more technically demanding than the south, and this is kept as a second goal to reaching the higher summit. Normally after success on the latter, at least part of the team is able to climb its glacial face. On Huascaran Sur, we move to the saddle and turn up the steeper 30-45 degree north face of Huascaran Sur. The climb finishes with a fine pitch on a 45-degree snow rib which leads right up to the summit plateau. Excitement is great as final steps to the top of the Western Hemisphere's highest summit are made. The views of the Cordillera Blanca, the Cordillera Negra, and out over the Amazon Basin are fittingly magnificent.

For climbing in Peru contact us for full details.