Los Roques, Venezuela - Treasures of the Sea
By: M. Timothy O'Keefe
Caribbean Travel & Life, June/July, 1998

The 350 islands, islets and coral cays of Venezuela's Los Roques archipelago span an area of over 850 square miles/2,210 sq. km, making it one of the Caribbean's largest marine parks.

A protected area since 1972, Los Roques is about as ideal a getaway as anyone could imagine. It has scores of always exceptional but normally deserted beaches, miles of undisturbed reefs surrounded by perpetually warm, clear water and a half million acres of bonefish flats that are considered some of the world's finest.

Yet Los Roques is a place few Americans have ever heard of, much less visited, One reason is that although the islands are located in the Caribbean, about 90 miles north of Caracas, they're often catalogued as part of the South American coastline since the best way to reach them is by air through Caracas. Even then, visitors normally have to overnight in Caracas because flights to Gran Roque, the only landfall able to accommodate small planes, leave quite early.

Gran Roque, obviously named for its larger size , is hardly a tourist metropolis. Instead, it's home to about 150 families who earn their living primarily from fishing and lobstering. Tourists? Most are divers, fishermen, and sailors looking for that last great, unexplored frontier. Most guest-house operators, as well as fishing and diving guides, are bilingual, but language can still be a barrier at times.

Because Los Roques is a national park, all visitors must pay a $10 fee and the Venezuelan government strictly regulates any activity that might impact the environment. For instance, the number of fishing permits is restricted in order to sustain the rich flats where bonefish from three to five pounds school like minnows and catches of 12 to 18 bonefish by an angler in a single day are not uncommon. Permit also roam the same flats, and snook and small tarpon are present in the small island lagoons. Fishing is good year-round, with March through November considered the prime season.

Grand Roque is also home to the main dive shop, which is PADI - affiliated. Divers are not limited to the Gran Roque but ferried among the islands. More than 50 dive sites have been marked on the estimated 300 reefs which are rich Cozumel-like sponge life and big schools of tropical snapper and grouper. Much of the best diving is in the 40- to 60- foot range.

Catamaran sailing, towed hang gliding and water skiing are also offered. Oh yes, there's plenty of plain relaxing and beachcombing too, for those who can resist the array of water sports. North American-based Quest Global Angling Adventures (888-891-3474 ) specializes in fishing packages as does Dick Ballard's Fishing Adventures (800-336-9735). Arjona Tours (011-58-2-941-8498, e-mail:ajtour@infoline.wtfe.com) in Venezuela books diving, surfing and fishing trips. Lost World Adventures (800-999-0558) books stays at several posadas, including the Mediterraneo Guesthouse (011-58-2-975-0082), and also has live-aboard yachts available for charter. LTA, a full-service travel company, has direct flights to Los Roques from both Caracas and Margarita Island. Call 011-58-2-761-6247 or visit www.tuy.com for more information. Los Roques has a very short high season, from mid-December to mid-April, when room rates increase about 10 percent. For more information, contact the Venezuela Travel Association at 415-331-01100.